Images of Guatemala

Paul diving into the turquoise pools, Semuc Champey

Temples rising above the jungle canopy, Tikal

The Mayan temples of Tikal

View from our Flores hotel across Lake Peten

Coloured buildings of Flores

Semuc Champey

Vanessa at Semuc Champey

Timotei Advert

Our second and final night on the lovely island of Flores was a bizarre cosmopolitan affair. We dined in the German owned, French named restaurant called La Ville del Chef, eating a Mexican meal, served by Spanish speaking Guatemalan waiters whilst listening to reggae music. Flores has been a real bonus as it was just a gateway to visit the Mayan site of Tikal but it’s been a bit like being on an Italian lake but at a fraction of the price.



Semuc Champey, Guatemala

Next morning a minibus collected us at 9am and just a short nine hour journey south through lush mountain scenery via hundreds of speed bumps and potholes we arrived at the remote but wonderfully tropical river location of Semuc Champey in the centre of Guatemala, our base for a couple of nights. On the wall of reception was a timetable for electricity…..between 6pm and 10pm.

The turquoise pools (taken by Ed, San Diego)

We had high hopes but weren’t too sure about what we would find there but what we experienced was probably one of the best days of our lives. In warm sunny weather we made a 45 minute steep climb to a viewpoint on the river to view below us a series of ridiculously turquoise cascading pools which form a 300 metre long limestone bridge under which the river plunges. Then there’s nothing else to do but spend a few hours swimming in the clearest water, diving and rock sliding to each of the pools. Dense, tropical jungle surrounded us and it was difficult to imagine a more beautiful place to be. It was a classic Timotei advert and we couldn’t quite believe we were in Guatemala.

The day could have finished quite happily there but after lunch it was off for a bit of caving which we knew involved some swimming. Armed with nothing more than a candle each, seven of us including an American couple from San Diego, a guy from South Korea, a Colombian, and an Israeli followed our guide into the cave. An hour and a half later after climbing up and jumping through waterfalls, swimming whilst attempting to keep the candle alight, and just generally helping eachother through some adrenalin pumping situations, we all emerged with nothing more than a few bruises but best of friends. We’ve been in various caves before but this was on a different level, just amazing and the smile didn’t disappear from our faces all day. There was still time to tube 3kms down river in the late evening sunshine and for a couple of us to jump off a 40 foot bridge into the river for our final soaking of the day.

We could come home today and be totally content with our travels. Guatemala has been a massive surprise and just amazingly beautiful……so far.

 

Flores and Tikal, Guatemala

The cobbled streets of Flores, Guatemala

It wasn't without a certain amount of trepidation that we made our first overland border crossing in Central America, from Belize into Guatemala. An early start, a deep breath, some money changing into the Guatemalan quetzal, some departure tax, a walk across nomansland, a quick negotiation with the Spanish speaking taxi drivers and before we knew it we were on our way through the lush countryside heading towards the beautiful island of Flores situated on Lake Peten. Small lakeside hotels and restaurants, cobbled streets and brightly coloured painted houses with a church sat on top of the hill. This is Flores and you can walk around it in  20 minutes.

We hardly had time to enjoy happy hour before we were being collected at 4.30am the next morning to visit Guatemala’s jewel in the crown and ‘the heart of the Mayan world’, Tikal National Park.  It stands in 360 square miles of jungle and contains the largest Mayan temples in the world which stretch out beyond the jungle canopy. Its Guatemala’s most visited site and we could see why.

Images of Belize

Toucan in San Ignacio

Local woman in Caye Caulker

The Split, Caye Caulker

Snorkeling with nurse sharks and stingrays

Barber Shop in San Ignacio

Kayaking in Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Belize.....Reflections

It was time to leave the idyllic Caye Caulker after eight days just relaxing.  A boat, taxi, bus and five hours later and we’d travelled across Belize to San Ignacio on its western border. San Ignacio is the second largest city  but we’d walked around it in 20 minutes so we decided a couple of nights there would be ample. Time enough though to change some money, walk to the Mayan site of Cahal Pech, have a drink overlooking the lush valley below whilst admiring the toucans, iguanas and hovering hummingbirds, and to discover one important thing.  Sweet T’ing Bakery in San Ignacio makes better cheesecake than we have at home.

Third World Belize was never on our initial itinerary but we had a change of heart as we thought it would be an easy introduction to Central America and it certainly delivered. Not only that but it’s a great insight to what the Caribbean was like 30 years ago before mass tourism and the invention of the all inclusive. The people are extremely friendly and  it’s so laid back that even some of the flowers close in the afternoon.

DAYS SPENT:  10

TRANSPORT:  1 plane, 3 taxis, 2 boats, 1 bus

NUMBER OF PLACES WE STAYED:  3 (1 backpackers, 2 hotels)

ITEMS LOST/REPLACED:  None

FAVOURITE EATERY:  ‘Enjoy’ in Caye Caulker

WILDLIFE SPOTTED:  crocodile, spotted eagle ray, stingray, nurse shark, barracuda, toucan, hummingbird, iguana

TOURS TAKEN:  2 (snorkelling at Caye Caulker and  Lamanai)

Major Tom

Its not plastic

After much deliberation it was decided to haul ourselves away from our hammocks and have a day of culture on the penultimate day of our stay in Caye Caulker. We took the speedboat back to the mainland where we were met by the very charismatic Major Tom from the inappropriately named Tsunami Tours, who immediately began boasting about his five visits to England and his fondest memory of all.....apple crumble with custard.

An hours drive north to the town of Orange Walk and we were ready to hop aboard a boat that took us 28 miles through the jungle along the New River, passing several crocodiles on route, to the lost Mayan city of Lamanai. The Mayan people were an ancient civilisation who evolved over 3500 years ago and were mysteriously wiped out more than 500 years ago. There are a few decendents left who are believed to be working in the gift shop.

Ancient temple at Lamanai

Lamanai was once a city of 60,000 people but now just 1% of the original dwellings are visible since the jungle reclaimed them all. Its a truly spectacular sight to be walking through nothing but jungle then suddenly a massive ancient temple appears before your eyes. It was a steep climb to the top, not because of the heat or the height, but because our legs had been horizontal for over a week. The impressive view though looking down on the canopy below made the climb worthwhile.

Pot Noodles

One month into our little adventure and we find ourselves stranded in Caye Caulker, Belize. Not because of a pending hurricane or a speedboat strike but beacause we just can't be bothered to move, similar to the mangy dogs that can't quite force themselves to have a good scratch before falling back to sleep.

Our new home next to the graveyard

After five nights at Yuma's Backpackers we had to leave as she's getting the painters in so we made an energetic five minute hike along the beach to the the ironically named Tropical Paradise Hotel, located adjacent to the islands' graveyard. Their three nights for the price of two offer was good enough to tempt us in.

We were sad to leave Yuma's which is a typical backpacker's place with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities but times have changed since the last time we ventured into this lifestyle. Back then, 16 years ago in fact, it was Pot Noodles for lunch and Pot Noodles for dinner with the occasional pasta with tinned tomatoes on a Saturday, but not any more. We've witnessed being prepared, blue crab with garlic butter, homemade banana cakes, and not just rum and coke but it has to have a slice of lime and on the rocks which then has to be photograhed by one of the other backpackers on their iPad.



Off to Tropical Paradise

This is all very well but a little bit selfish as their were some 'experienced' backpackers patiently waiting their turn to get in to prepare their Philadelphia toasted sandwiches with a banana on the side.