Belize.....Reflections

It was time to leave the idyllic Caye Caulker after eight days just relaxing.  A boat, taxi, bus and five hours later and we’d travelled across Belize to San Ignacio on its western border. San Ignacio is the second largest city  but we’d walked around it in 20 minutes so we decided a couple of nights there would be ample. Time enough though to change some money, walk to the Mayan site of Cahal Pech, have a drink overlooking the lush valley below whilst admiring the toucans, iguanas and hovering hummingbirds, and to discover one important thing.  Sweet T’ing Bakery in San Ignacio makes better cheesecake than we have at home.

Third World Belize was never on our initial itinerary but we had a change of heart as we thought it would be an easy introduction to Central America and it certainly delivered. Not only that but it’s a great insight to what the Caribbean was like 30 years ago before mass tourism and the invention of the all inclusive. The people are extremely friendly and  it’s so laid back that even some of the flowers close in the afternoon.

DAYS SPENT:  10

TRANSPORT:  1 plane, 3 taxis, 2 boats, 1 bus

NUMBER OF PLACES WE STAYED:  3 (1 backpackers, 2 hotels)

ITEMS LOST/REPLACED:  None

FAVOURITE EATERY:  ‘Enjoy’ in Caye Caulker

WILDLIFE SPOTTED:  crocodile, spotted eagle ray, stingray, nurse shark, barracuda, toucan, hummingbird, iguana

TOURS TAKEN:  2 (snorkelling at Caye Caulker and  Lamanai)

Major Tom

Its not plastic

After much deliberation it was decided to haul ourselves away from our hammocks and have a day of culture on the penultimate day of our stay in Caye Caulker. We took the speedboat back to the mainland where we were met by the very charismatic Major Tom from the inappropriately named Tsunami Tours, who immediately began boasting about his five visits to England and his fondest memory of all.....apple crumble with custard.

An hours drive north to the town of Orange Walk and we were ready to hop aboard a boat that took us 28 miles through the jungle along the New River, passing several crocodiles on route, to the lost Mayan city of Lamanai. The Mayan people were an ancient civilisation who evolved over 3500 years ago and were mysteriously wiped out more than 500 years ago. There are a few decendents left who are believed to be working in the gift shop.

Ancient temple at Lamanai

Lamanai was once a city of 60,000 people but now just 1% of the original dwellings are visible since the jungle reclaimed them all. Its a truly spectacular sight to be walking through nothing but jungle then suddenly a massive ancient temple appears before your eyes. It was a steep climb to the top, not because of the heat or the height, but because our legs had been horizontal for over a week. The impressive view though looking down on the canopy below made the climb worthwhile.

Pot Noodles

One month into our little adventure and we find ourselves stranded in Caye Caulker, Belize. Not because of a pending hurricane or a speedboat strike but beacause we just can't be bothered to move, similar to the mangy dogs that can't quite force themselves to have a good scratch before falling back to sleep.

Our new home next to the graveyard

After five nights at Yuma's Backpackers we had to leave as she's getting the painters in so we made an energetic five minute hike along the beach to the the ironically named Tropical Paradise Hotel, located adjacent to the islands' graveyard. Their three nights for the price of two offer was good enough to tempt us in.

We were sad to leave Yuma's which is a typical backpacker's place with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities but times have changed since the last time we ventured into this lifestyle. Back then, 16 years ago in fact, it was Pot Noodles for lunch and Pot Noodles for dinner with the occasional pasta with tinned tomatoes on a Saturday, but not any more. We've witnessed being prepared, blue crab with garlic butter, homemade banana cakes, and not just rum and coke but it has to have a slice of lime and on the rocks which then has to be photograhed by one of the other backpackers on their iPad.



Off to Tropical Paradise

This is all very well but a little bit selfish as their were some 'experienced' backpackers patiently waiting their turn to get in to prepare their Philadelphia toasted sandwiches with a banana on the side.

Images of Caye Caulker, Belize

Arriving in Caye Caulker

The Split

The main road

 

Vanessa contemplating going in.........

........and she's in

Its Hammock Time

Hammock time

Not the famous MC Hammer track but the pace of life in Belize, especially here in Caye Caulker. Belize proudly dips one toe in the Caribbean and the other in the dense Central American jungle and we're firmly dipped into the Caribbean.

Their motto 'go slow' is sometimes too fast and this is typified by the only form of motorised transport on the island, the golf cart, which even the police dart around on. Comically, they have speed bumps along the 'main' sand roads, its a length of rope!

We were greeted with a tropical storm on our first night but since then its been sunshine all the way which was lucky for today's obligatory snorkelling trip. Little known fact, Belize has the second largest coral reef in the world, second only to the Great Barrier Reef so it just had to be done. The breath in our snorkel was taken away with the stunning sight of a 6 ft diameter eagle spotted manta ray, as well as nurse sharks, sting rays brushing past our legs, barracuda and a moray eel.

Friday night was Belizean band night at the Barrier Reef Beach Bar and it was absolute gridlock outside. There must have been more than 10 golf carts parked up on the sand with the police looking on closely. The band played all sorts of styles from rock to reggae but they were accompanied by an acoustic guitarist from Havana who was just unbelievable. Listening to him play the Spanish guitar with our feet in the sand, the gentle breeze blowing in off the moonlit Caribbean sea with a cold beer in your hand was just perfect, but we were getting hungry.

Dinner followed and we certainly enjoyed Enjoy, a small beachside restaurant just a two minute walk or a 30 second golf cart taxi ride away. We elected to walk. Belize is the most expensive of the Central American countries but this wasn't too bad, a whole lobster with shrimp kebab, coconut rice, sauteed vegetables, garlic bread, rum punch and fruit platter to finish........for just £7.

Belize, Central America

Our over indulgence on our final day in The States, including an American diner for breakfast, beignets (French doughnuts pronounced 'ben-yay') for lunch and macaroni cheese in the evening, was sitting pretty heavy when our taxi arrived at 2.45am to take us to New Orleans airport. Early morning fun though whilst we waited for him to show up half an hour late, as a young driver ploughed into the side of a truck just a few yards away. The quiet little residential neighbourhood was no longer quiet. The taxi driver blamed us for his lateness which worked in our favour, no tip for the rude bastard.

Flying over the Belizean islands

Eventually after the taxi ride, two flights via Miami, a taxi ride to Belize City and a 45 minute speed boat ride, we arrived at Yuma's Guesthouse on the tiny island of Caye Caulker just off the north east coast of Belize in the Caribbean Sea.

Caye Caulker's motto is 'no shoes required' as its only about a mile long with no roads, several beach bars, cheap accommodation, all surrounded by coconut palms and warm turquoise waters. Its going to be tough but it will be our home for about a week. A very gentle start to the second leg of our trip.

 

USA.....Reflections

We love the States!

Its been an amazing trip from driving the Blue Ridge Mountains to the wild Outer Banks, from the beautiful towns of Savannah and Charleston to the coolest city of them all......New Orleans.

Yes its our last day in the States before we fly to Belize in Central America for a whole new adventure.

DAYS SPENT: 25

TRANSPORT: 2 planes, 3 car ferries, 1 hire car, 2 taxis

MILES DRIVEN: 2600

STATES VISITED: 5 - North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee, Louisiana

NUMBER OF PLACES WE STAYED:  14 motels, 1 homestay, 1 guesthouse

ITEMS LOST/REPLACED: Vanessa's flip-flops, Paul's spare camera battery

FAVOURITE EATERY: Coop’s Place in New Orleans

WILDLIFE SPOTTED: Black Bear, Elk, Alligator, Pelican, Egret, Skink (blue tailed lizard)

MOST TOURISTY THING:  paddle steamer cruise on the Mississippi

BEST VALUE FOR MONEY: $1 donation to the street entertainer in New Orleans