Images of Caye Caulker, Belize

Arriving in Caye Caulker

The Split

The main road

 

Vanessa contemplating going in.........

........and she's in

Its Hammock Time

Hammock time

Not the famous MC Hammer track but the pace of life in Belize, especially here in Caye Caulker. Belize proudly dips one toe in the Caribbean and the other in the dense Central American jungle and we're firmly dipped into the Caribbean.

Their motto 'go slow' is sometimes too fast and this is typified by the only form of motorised transport on the island, the golf cart, which even the police dart around on. Comically, they have speed bumps along the 'main' sand roads, its a length of rope!

We were greeted with a tropical storm on our first night but since then its been sunshine all the way which was lucky for today's obligatory snorkelling trip. Little known fact, Belize has the second largest coral reef in the world, second only to the Great Barrier Reef so it just had to be done. The breath in our snorkel was taken away with the stunning sight of a 6 ft diameter eagle spotted manta ray, as well as nurse sharks, sting rays brushing past our legs, barracuda and a moray eel.

Friday night was Belizean band night at the Barrier Reef Beach Bar and it was absolute gridlock outside. There must have been more than 10 golf carts parked up on the sand with the police looking on closely. The band played all sorts of styles from rock to reggae but they were accompanied by an acoustic guitarist from Havana who was just unbelievable. Listening to him play the Spanish guitar with our feet in the sand, the gentle breeze blowing in off the moonlit Caribbean sea with a cold beer in your hand was just perfect, but we were getting hungry.

Dinner followed and we certainly enjoyed Enjoy, a small beachside restaurant just a two minute walk or a 30 second golf cart taxi ride away. We elected to walk. Belize is the most expensive of the Central American countries but this wasn't too bad, a whole lobster with shrimp kebab, coconut rice, sauteed vegetables, garlic bread, rum punch and fruit platter to finish........for just £7.

Belize, Central America

Our over indulgence on our final day in The States, including an American diner for breakfast, beignets (French doughnuts pronounced 'ben-yay') for lunch and macaroni cheese in the evening, was sitting pretty heavy when our taxi arrived at 2.45am to take us to New Orleans airport. Early morning fun though whilst we waited for him to show up half an hour late, as a young driver ploughed into the side of a truck just a few yards away. The quiet little residential neighbourhood was no longer quiet. The taxi driver blamed us for his lateness which worked in our favour, no tip for the rude bastard.

Flying over the Belizean islands

Eventually after the taxi ride, two flights via Miami, a taxi ride to Belize City and a 45 minute speed boat ride, we arrived at Yuma's Guesthouse on the tiny island of Caye Caulker just off the north east coast of Belize in the Caribbean Sea.

Caye Caulker's motto is 'no shoes required' as its only about a mile long with no roads, several beach bars, cheap accommodation, all surrounded by coconut palms and warm turquoise waters. Its going to be tough but it will be our home for about a week. A very gentle start to the second leg of our trip.

 

USA.....Reflections

We love the States!

Its been an amazing trip from driving the Blue Ridge Mountains to the wild Outer Banks, from the beautiful towns of Savannah and Charleston to the coolest city of them all......New Orleans.

Yes its our last day in the States before we fly to Belize in Central America for a whole new adventure.

DAYS SPENT: 25

TRANSPORT: 2 planes, 3 car ferries, 1 hire car, 2 taxis

MILES DRIVEN: 2600

STATES VISITED: 5 - North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee, Louisiana

NUMBER OF PLACES WE STAYED:  14 motels, 1 homestay, 1 guesthouse

ITEMS LOST/REPLACED: Vanessa's flip-flops, Paul's spare camera battery

FAVOURITE EATERY: Coop’s Place in New Orleans

WILDLIFE SPOTTED: Black Bear, Elk, Alligator, Pelican, Egret, Skink (blue tailed lizard)

MOST TOURISTY THING:  paddle steamer cruise on the Mississippi

BEST VALUE FOR MONEY: $1 donation to the street entertainer in New Orleans

 

More Pictures of New Orleans

Paddle steamer on the Mississippi

Jazz is everywhere

French buildings on every corner

Corner store in New Orleans

The colourful houses of New Orleans

The Spotted Cat Jazz Bar

Vanessa with the street entertainer

Typical French balcony

The Mighty Mississippi

It was lovely a hot sunny day again in N'Awlins, the correct 'deep south' way to pronounce New Orleans once you've been here 24 hours. A leisurely breakfast to start the day at a corner cafe in the lovely reidential neighbourhood where we're staying, with its brightly painted wooden houses and tropical gardens on every corner.

One of Vanessa's ambitions was achieved today when we set sail down the Mississippi River........on a paddle steamer. Yes, it was the most touristy thing we've done since we've been away but you just have to do it and it was great fun nonetheless.

Vanessa on the Mississippi

You can spend hours just strolling around the streets in the French Quarter soaking up the wonderful atmosphere where jazz music can be heard at every turn. Each tiny and inviting bar draws you in but it wasn't difficult for us though to choose which one we would sample, it just had to the coolest venue in town, The Spotted Cat.

The 'Big Easy'

Vanessa getting in on the act in New Orleans

It was a sad start to the day, not just because we had to get up at 4am, but we had to return the Mustang before catching our flight to New Orleans, Louisiana.

Affectionately known as the 'Big Easy', it didn't take us long to settle in once we'd checked in for our three night stay at a very small and quirky guesthouse. It was situated just a couple of minutes walk in the hot sunshine from Frenchmen Street where live music could be heard from every bar. It hooks you in very quickly and before we knew it we were tucking into a pulled rabbit and spicy sausage jambalaya with crayfish and a shrimp creole at Coop's Bar.

Wandering the streets with their French colonial buildings, a very cool looking street entertainer decided that Vanessa would be be an excellent victim for his act, much to everyone's amusement, especially mine.

More USA pictures - week 3





Al and Vanessa on his Harley

Vanessa and Cathi keep well clear

Savannah, Georgia

Vanessa at Myrtle Beach

Savannah

Paul with Al & Cathi at Kiawah Island

Al, Cathi, Caviar & Bananas



Al and Paul take the Harley for a spin

After our one night stop in Savannah we drove a couple of hours back up north to Charleston, South Carolina, to stay with our friends Al & Cathi. They gave us a wonderful warm welcome to their beautiful 4 bedroom house which backs directly onto a golf course in an exclusive gated community on John’s Island.
They took us a couple of miles to Kiawah Island and treated us to hors d'hoevres on the terrace overlooking the water and the 18th green where the US PGA was recently held, won by Ireland's Rory McIlroy. The next morning will probably turn out to be one of the most memorable of our whole trip. Al suddenly asked us the frequently heard question, "Do you wanna see a gator?", so we all walked across the back garden which has no fence, to one of the lagoons just a few yards away to see four alligators sunning themselves by the 14th green. Its about the same distance as us walking out of our front door at home to the duck pond!

We returned with the correct number of limbs to the sound of a motorbike revving up in the driveway. Not any old motorbike, but Al’s Harley Davidson with two crash helmets at the ready. Now we’re not into motorbikes but a ride on a Harley is a different story. In turn, Al took us for a spin round the island in the glorious hot sunshine and suddenly the ‘bucket list’ had become slightly shorter.

A stroll around the lovely old streets of Charleston in the afternoon and lunch at the wonderfully named Caviar & Bananas, followed by a quick stop to buy some cheese and wine at a deli called Goat Sheep Cow, a wander round the marina in the evening whilst eating espresso and peanut butter ice cream and the perfect day was complete. Al and Cathi have been a complete joy to be with. They’ve treated us so well, had a lot of laughs, had some wonderful experiences and its been an honour to stay with them for a few days. It’s the perfect place to live and we’re lucky enough to have had a big fat slice of it.

Savannah

One of Savannah's many squares

After a couple of nights in Myrtle Beach we drove four hours south to the historical riverside city of Savannah in the state of Georgia. With its gorgeous mansions, cobbled streets, numerous squares surrounded by mammoth twisted oak trees dripping in Spanish moss and its riverside setting, Savannah is a wonderful place to visit. Once voted the most beautiful city in America it felt more like a stroll around the streets of Paris compared to yesterday's stroll around the streets of Benidorm. We stayed the night in a cheap motel a few miles outside the city and were horrified to find there was no microwave in the room when we'd planned one of our special home cooked pasta meals. Once we'd explained our predicament to the staff, they kindly let us use the motel kitchen facilities. What a couple of idiots we looked walking back to our room with a plate of pasta whilst checking that we'd locked the Ford Mustang!

Gay Dolphin

Gay Dolphin Gift Shop at Myrtle Beach

We were accompanied by the theme music to Titanic as we boarded the Fort Fisher car Ferry on our continuing journey down the North Carolina Coast. On route we passed the boringly named town of Supply before crossing the state border into South Carolina. Arriving in Myrtle Beach it reminded us of Benidorm with mile after mile of high rise hotels, ubiquitous themed mini golf and the hilarious three storey Gay Dolphin Gift Shop which we had to leave for laughing too much. Why stay in Myrtle Beach? Simple, cheap food and ridiculously cheap accommodation with a king size room with two double beds, full size fridge freezer, located right on the beach and including breakfast cost just $30 (£18) per night. It's wasn't our typical place to stop but it was on route, on the beach and we loved every minute of it.

More USA pictures - week 2

Wilmington waterfront

Amish family day out

Sunset at Surf City

Waiting for the Ocracoke Ferry

Vanessa on The Outer Banks

One of Outer Banks bridges

The Pelican Champion

The Pelican Awards Ceremony

From our Carolina Beach base in Wilmington we took the Fort Fisher car ferry to Southport, a lovely little seaside town. On the way we couldn't help noticing that Peter the Pelican had retained the number 1 position in the local Pelican Championship. We had a stroll along the beach at Oak Island before heading back to base for a few hours on the beach. It's taken a few days for Vanessa to feel brave enough to venture into the sea, not because its too cold but the waves were too big. As I looked over my shoulder today, there she was, body surfing and complaining that the waves weren't big enough! Saturday evening was spent in the local American sports bar, The Dive.

1950's Carolina

Carolina Beach

It's the 1950's

We drove the 15 miles from our motel to downtown Wilmington, a picturesque riverside city with an abundance of historic buildings mixed with cool bars, cafes and shops. Spent a lovely morning in the sun wandering the streets before heading back for a dip in the sea at Carolina Beach which is a bit tacky but has quite a 1950's feel about it. It was right old rock 'n' roll ending to the day for us though........a visit to the laundromat and a bowl of salad on the beach!

Cape Fear Boulevard

Vanessa on Topsail Beach, North Carolina

More glorious sunny weather in North Carolina today so we took an early morning stroll along the gorgeous Topsail Beach before coontinuing south towards the city of Wilmington which is going to be our base for the next three nights. We found a grotty little motel that suited us perfectly at Carolina Beach on the wonderfully named street, Cape Fear Boulevard. It was a two minute walk from the beach and just across the road from the 'food store' which had all the essential ingredients for another one of our signature backpacking pasta dishes!

Awesome (pronounced 'aarrggh-sum')

All aboard the Ocracoke ferry

This is the only adjective used in the USA to describe everything from the sun rising over the Grand Canyon to the colour of milk. Absolutely everything that is, apart from......coffee! In Ocracoke they have thankfully gone one better to describe their coffee......scrumptrulescent. The defintion being, 'so great that any other word employed would be woefully insufficient and would serve only to limit the sheer magnitude of the greatness intended'. Awesome. Up at the crack of dawn this morning to catch the car ferry from Ocracoke Island to Cedar Island on our journey down the North Carolina coast. It was calm, sunny, and about 80F for the 2 hour crossing which cost just $15 (£9) followed by a short visit to the lovely riverside town of Beaufort. Part of the adventure is not knowing what we're going to see or where we're going to end up each night and today was no different. It was Tiffany's in Surf City which conjures up something very grand except Tiffany’s was a motel, there was no surf and it certainly wsn’t a city. Actually it was very good value and right on the beach. When checking in I was waiting to hear the word 'awesome' but I inadvertently used the very British word 'stumbled', and before I knew it I was comprehensibly beaten at word trumps.

Do the Ocracoke.....

Crossing the only road on Ocracoke

There's no bridge at the end of Hatteras Island so we made the educated decision to take the free 40 minute car ferry to Ocracoke Island on our continuing journey south down North Carolina's Outer Banks. It was a lovely calm crossing accompanied by glorious hot sunshine, pelicans swooping across the deck, a pod of porpoises and some passengers that left me pondering a nagging question. Is it just the weight of the vehicles or are the passegers taken into consideration too? Everything was just fine though as we docked at Ocracoke, a 12 mile strip of sand just a few hundred metres wide. The only town is at the southernmost point which is small with a Caribbean feel and was our home for the night. More intriguing American place names as we checked into the Sand Dollar Motel on the corner of Nubbins Ridge Road, next to the Topless Oyster Bar which was a disappointment to find only the oysters were topless. We ate a grilled mahi-mahi and Po'Boy (pulled pork) sandwich washed down with a pint of Smuttynose Old Brown Dog.

Pea to Hatteras

The rugged Hatteras Island



The accommodation was a little over our budget at the weekend so we moved a few miles down the road. Unfortunately so did the flies. Mind you, that's a little harsh on the flies as they were only attempting to eat the remains of food that had been left in the microwave. A quieter start to the day as the weather was grey and drizzly but the afternoon brightened up so we walked for miles down the endless, wild Atlantic beach. You just have to love the restaurant and place names in the States. Our evening was spent at Awful Arthur's Oyster Bar, Kill Devil Hills. The following day we continued our drive down the Outer Banks in glorious 80F sunshine and the scenery became more and more wild as we crossed the wonderfully named Pea Island. Sixty miles of bridges and sand dunes later we ended up at the southernmost point of Hatteras Island and found our best motel so far. In fact it was so good we felt brave enough to use the pool.

More pictures from week 1

Jockey's Ridge, Outer Banks

Avalon Pier, Outer Banks

Jockey's Ridge, Outer Banks

Avalon Pier, Outer Banks

Outer Banks

Blue Ridge Mountains

Vanessa, Duck

Duck

 



Avalon Fishing Pier at sunrise

 

 No, not the warning cry, nor the tasty bird with orange sauce, but Duck, one of the picturesque villages on North Carolina’s Outer Banks. The Outer Banks are a fragile ribbon of sand islands stretching for 100 miles linked by bridges and ferries with mile after mile of pastel coloured mansions lining the ocean front. Apart from our motel which I’m sure is housing extras for the forthcoming remake of ‘Deliverence’ by the look of the couple in the end room who haven’t moved from their banjo playing chairs for 48 hours! The morning began with a stunning sunrise stroll along the beach to the rickety Avalon Fishing Pier before heading off to the villages of Duck, Corolla and Manteo. Jockey’s Ridge was our favourite though which isn’t a village at all but an expanse of enormous sand dunes 100 feet tall. As a backdrop, there was a violent thunderstorm in the distance. Add to this the temperature in the mid 90’s and the day didn’t work out too bad at all. Oh, apart from bumping into the first English people on our trip so far. They were from Newcastle so we made our excuses and left!!




Vanessa on The Outer Banks

 






Jockey's Ridge sand dunes