Rurrenabaque and Back

Before we left La Paz we had just enough time to go to the Witches Market as we were running a bit low on llama fetuses, and also to visit the Coca Museum to discover everything you could possibly want to know about cocaine if you didn't already know, like us.

We've been at altitude now for three weeks and luckily haven't suffered any sickness but the lungs seem to take forever to acclimatise. This was never more evident than last night when we were climbing one of the city's very steep streets and the local lady in front, who was pushing a fully laden wheelbarrow, started to get away from us.

Spot the toucan

It was time get back to sea level and find some warmer temperatures so we booked a 55 minute flight to Rurrenabaque, a small town towards the north of Bolivia, and in so doing, saved ourselves a torturous 16-30 hour bus journey, depending on the number of landslides.

After the cold nights of the last few weeks it was a very welcome hot and humid 32C so we made the most of it by spending the day at a hotel pool, only to be disturbed by a toucan who took route under our sunbed all day and continued to occasionally peck at our feet which was a little disconcerting as that beak could have had a foot off.

Squirrell monkey and baby

Rurrenabaque is the gateway to the Amazon Basin and we’d booked a 3 day/2 night stay at a homestay on one of the Amazon’s many tributaries. The accommodation, homecooked food, location and guide were all excellent. He took us out on the boat each day to spot river dolphins, caimans, monkeys, turtles, a sloth and loads of birds. After spotting the caimans and trying a spot of piranha fishing, it was time for a swim!!! Yes, allegedly where the dolphins congregate its safe to swim as they eat piranha so in I jumped, albeit a little nervously, to swim with the dolphins in the hope that they were hungry.

The trip was faultless and we even managed to beat the rain but unfortunately we were beaten by the mosquitoes. In reality it was horrible experience. We were both covered in hundreds of bites and no amount of insect repellent or clothing could prevent them. It’s a myth about covering up as they’ll find a way through. I counted twenty bites on one knee which was covered. There was one final five hour boat trip on the last day and I’d had enough but Vanessa was a lot braver than me as she donned her three layers including winter jacket in the 30 degree heat, and ventured off down the river. I felt so sorry for her when she told me that the boat had broken down for an hour and when the boat’s not moving, the mosquitoes attack.

It was a such a relief to be back in Rurrenabaque and we were actually looking forward to returning to the altitude and cold nights…….but mosquito free.