Uyuni in Jeopardy

The excitement continued to build as did the stress levels as we eagerly awaited the arrival of Vanessa's mum and Gary in Bolivia. Our carefully planned three day tour of the Uyuni salt flats was beginning to look in jeopardy as the heavy rain continued, threatening their flight  and preventing even the 4WD's venturing out, plus the National Park was closed due to a strike over the amount of money going to the indigenous people.

Driving across the amazing salt lake

We arrived first in Uyuni after a hellish four hour bus trip on which I managed to accidently kick a baby in the head that had bizarrely been allowed to crawl around the disgusting floor. The bus dropped us in what looked like a flooded war zone and things deteriorated further when we realised our hotel was up Avenida Arce and Vanessa came down with another dose of the screaming unmentionables.

Leaving Vanessa close to the toilet,  I ventured out in the hope of finding some positive news. The first tour agency confirmed that the National Park was indeed closed, cutting out a large area but the tours were leaving on schedule as the weather was due to improve and they were correct. Vanessa's mum and Gary's flight arrived next day in beautiful sunshine and we were immediately treated to a luxury hotel for a couple of nights as well as receiving essential gifts and Marmite from home.

We successfully managed to book a private tour for the four of us, the sun shone, Vanessa felt better and slowly we were beginning to think that luck was on our side. We packed ourselves into the 4WD with our driver/guide/cook Augustin from Quechua Connections, and drove off into the unknown.

Gary putting his foot down

The rain had completely disappeared and the sun shone for the majority of the three days as the most jaw dropping scenery unfolded in front of us. All of our camera batteries were running out as we crossed the world's largest salt flats with its incredible reflections, surreal treeless landscapes, aquamarine lakes, red lakes with thousands of flamingos, dramatic volcanoes, colourful snow capped mountains, thermal pools and all under impossibly blue skies. It was endless. Even the National Park opened so we were able to witness every incredible sight.

It was a shock on the first night when I was asked to drive us all down to watch the sunset over the salt flats whilst Augustin cooked our dinner. There was a huge sigh of relief when we returned safely after negotiating a few feet of water. The accommodation was basic with no heating or showers and toilet facilities that were best avoided. Hilariously we shared a dormitory on the second night which was met with fits of childish giggling, copious amounts of expelled gas and some top rate snoring which was not the best preparation for our 4am start to see the smoking geysers at sunrise at a freezing altitude of more than 5000 metres.

We returned to Uyuni exhausted but we realised just how lucky we'd been, and to experience it together was truly memorable. Fantastic company, a great laugh and surely one of the world's greatest trips. Our final day together was spent sat in the continuing warm sunshine, drinking beer and reflecting on what we'd seen.

Understandably there were tears at the airport as we hugged eachother and said our sad goodbyes. Even Vanessa and her mum couldn't contain themselves at the sight of us two blubbering idiots. As they flew back to La Paz and checked into their lovely hotel, life for us returned to normal as we boarded a Bolivian night bus which no human being should have to endure. Eight hours of unpaved road later we arrived in the small southern town of Tupiza at 4am with our bones still shaking, but safe.